The
history of Kilbrides Sunchaser Scuba
From
the log of S/V Never Monday
Passage Notes from John Ferguson and Diana Ruff
The British Virgin Islands
"Wanted: Underwater videographer with own video equipment willing
to live and work in the British Virgin Islands...". The ad in the
dive magazine was all that we needed to plan the next leg of our
journey. We sent out a demo tape to the BVI and held our breath. Before
long we were loading the boat and heading off to the sunny Caribbean for
a year to work for a guy named Mike, at what was then called 'Kilbrides
Underwater Tours'. We ended up staying nearly three years at a job that
most people would pay to have!
I had first heard of Bert
Kilbride and the British Virgin Islands while reading scuba
magazines back in Montana. I knew that Bert had started the first dive
operation in the BVI back in 1961 (which he subsequently sold before
opening 'Kilbrides Divers' on Saba
Rock in 1975), at a resort that he built in the North Sound of
Virgin Gorda called 'Drake's Anchorage'. Bert (being
92 in 2006 - and more affectionately known as 'The Last Pirate of
Caribbean'), was
essentially one of the very first people to explore the waters around
the many islands of the BVI and he began discovering quite a few old
ship wrecks. Word of his discoveries quickly spread and in 1964 he was
officially appointed "Receiver of the Wrecks" by Her Royal
Highness, Queen Elizabeth II. This was due to the fact that he had
already discovered 138 sunken ships off the reefs of Anegada, just north
of Virgin Gorda.
One of the most interesting of Bert's finds was the remains of the
ship's carpenter, Steve Kenyon, from the wreck of the R.M.S.
Rhone, a Royal Mail carrier sunk by a hurricane in 1867 off the
coast of Salt Island. I used to love to give the dive briefing on
the way to the Rhone and tell some of the stories Bert and Mike shared
with me during evenings at the Pirate's Pub on Saba
Rock, where Bert then lived. The R.M.S. Rhone is the most famous
wreck in the entire Caribbean. It is where major portions of the 1977
movie, "The Deep" were filmed and Bert was responsible for
recommending the site to the producers and he served as diving adviser
during the filming. Bert's third wife, Jackie, was the stand-in / stunt
diver for Jacqueline Bissett. I'm told there was quite a resemblance to
the two women. The Pirates Pub was loaded with artifacts from many of
the wrecks Bert had discovered and we would often point out Steve
Kenyon's bones to many of our divers who would come by for a snack or
cocktail after diving the 'Wreck of the Rhone'.
Around 1980 the television show "20/20" did a documentary on
Bert Kilbride and "The Search for the San Ignacio", a treasure
ship that was lost near Anegada. Bert took Hugh Downs and Geraldo Rivera
to the reefs of Anegada in search of treasure. They found a new wreck
but it unfortunately was not the San Ignacio. Sounds a bit like Al
Capone's vault doesn't it?
In 1987 Bert received the "NOGI" award for sports education
for inventing the 'Resort Course' (or 'Discover Scuba Diving' as it's
now more commonly known by PADI). Bert and his old friend Jacques
Cousteau were in a select group of people who received the award for
Scuba Diving.
The
current owner, Mike Van Blaricum, had been running dive charters in
Florida for 15 years and had initially gone to St. Thomas (USVI) to
escape the "cold" of the Florida Keys. He was doing a towing
job after hurricane Hugo struck the islands when he located a new wreck.
The discovery turned out to be a 400 foot freighter named "Wit
Shoal" that had been scuttled by its owners in the middle of
the night. This site has now become a favorite for many St. Thomas dive
operators.
He
knew that he would not stay in St. Thomas forever and when he was
introduced to Bert Kilbride in 1990, the mold was cast. Bert needed a
new dive boat and someone to take over the running of the operation,
Mike needed a more relaxed atmosphere and a more permanent location.
With Mike's new 40 foot dive boat
"Sunchaser" and Bert's vast knowledge of the area, it was a
perfect combination and a new era began.
In 1992 with Bert being 78 and wanting to retire, he sold the 'Kilbrides
Divers' operation to Mike, (which is when the dive operation started the
move from Saba Rock to it's
current location at the Bitter End Yacht
Club) and later, Mike renamed the company to 'Sunchaser Scuba
Ltd.'.
Both
Mike and Bert enjoyed telling us stories of the early days of the
partnership. I especially like the one about Mike's first dive on the
wreck of the Chikuzen,
a 320 foot Korean fishing boat. Mike got into the water to check the
anchor and having done that, checked his air supply. He had not changed
to a new tank since the last dive, and was close to empty. Not wanting
to have Bert wonder about his diving skills, Mike simply buddied with
Bert, "borrowed" his alternate air source and finished the
dive with Bert by his side! Fortunately for Mike, Bert usually leaked
more air than he ever used and didn't even know what Mike was up to
until after the dive when Mike confessed.
Mike can be a hard person to work for some days as he is dedicated to
running a tight ship in the most professional manner. Diana and I were
impressed from the first day out and consider Mike's operation to be the
best in the British Virgin Islands. In our three years there, we learned
all the stories behind the dive sites, names of the fish and aquatic
life found in the BVI. As the videographer, I had the pleasure of
filming thousands of different people from all over the world and
sharing with them some of our "working buddies." After a year
as Divemaster, Diana was promoted to Dive Operations Manager.
While diving the Wreck
of the Rhone twice a week, I was able to befriend several of the local
inhabitants. One of these included a 6 foot green moray eel! I would
search her out each dive and show her to our divers. After filming her
for a while, I would slowly reach down and stroke her under her chin.
This worked great for quite a while. One day she must have been in a bad
mood and she decided that my fingers looked more like a meal than a
friendly tickle. After an embarrassing trip to the emergency room in
Roadtown, the nickname "Fingers Ferguson" seemed to have
stuck. I still have all my digits but the scars do make for a great
story!
During
February and March, we often had whale sightings. On an afternoon dive
just around the corner from the dive shop, Diana spotted a Humpback cow
and calf while heading to the site. We shut the engine off and everyone
was able to watch them play while the mother seemed to be teaching the
calf how to breach or jump out of the water. The cow and calf became
curious and slowly came closer and closer to the dive boat. The
temptation was more than Diana could stand and she grabbed her fins and
snorkel and quietly slid into the water. As forty feet of humpback whale
slowly glided beneath her, Diana stared into the large eye of the mother
whale. To celebrate the occasion, I bought her a small gold humpback
whale which she has worn everyday since.
The diversity of the dive
sites in the BVI is tremendous. From grottos and canyons to caves
and walls, you can see it all. Some sites offer gardens of coral and sea
fans while others offer huge boulders very similar to those at the
famous Baths in Virgin Gorda. The fish life is very diverse and hardly a
day went by that we didn't see something new.
Diana
and I remember our time in the BVI fondly and consider working at
Kilbrides Underwater Tours (now Sunchaser Scuba) one of the highlights
of our journey around the world. Mike and Amy will always be good
friends and who knows, maybe when we are done sailing around, Mike will
need a manager and we may be around to help him out...
John Ferguson and Diana Ruff aboard S/V Never Monday